FREQUENTLY ASKED
You have questions, we have answers! If your question is not answered below, feel free to contact me and I will get back to you as soon as I can!
Q: How much will my discount be?
A: With so many brands, incentives and offers, shortages etc., there’s no way to determine how much I can save you. Every deal and brand is different. I can say that I have saved customers over $10k on high line premium cars, and have had new arrivals that are market adjusted to $20k over window sticker negotiated down to sticker and even less sometimes.
Q: How do I know I'm getting the best deal?
A: I work for you, not the dealers. It is my mission to dig as deep as I can to get you the best deal possible. Most auto brokers either commission from the deal or what we in the industry call “double dip” meaning they charge you and the dealer. I dig deeper as I don’t take a penny from the dealership and my fee is less than everyone in the industry. I also negotiate with 2 or 3 other dealers to grind them down so low that 1 dealer has lowered the price substantially more than the rest. I also try to negotiate with the largest dealers as they buy more cars and get better prices for buying such high volume.
Q: How long does it take to find me the best deal?
A: I typically start hunting immediately and have a deal within 72 hours of receiving the deposit, but I ask for 7 days to be safe.
Q: If I'm already working with a salesperson, can you take over and handle the negotiations?
A: In short, yes, however I prefer to work in my network of dealers as I know they’ll work with me as they have in the past.
Q: Do you finance or work with people with less than good credit?
A: I’m not a dealership, bank or finance manager, but I always fight to get the lowest possible interest rate for all my clients if you’re financeable. If your FICO is over 600, most dealers will have special finance options. Leasing can be difficult without at least a 680 score. I can also stand by via text or telephone while you’re with the finance manager and consult you on what products to purchase and help negotiate on the prices of warranties, maintenance packages etc.
Q: How much better of a deal can you get me versus me haggling back and forth at the dealer all day?
A: Let me answer this with a question. What is your time or sanity worth? How worried would you be about how much money you left on the table at the end of the deal instead of trusting a seasoned professional? I’ve had clients tell me I saved them an additional $5000 to what they had originally haggled. That’s substantial!
Q: I read you that in most cases I don't even have to set foot in a dealership to get my car. How likely can you have the paperwork and vehicle delivered?
A: 80% of my clients have had their vehicles delivered and signed for at their home or office. There have been a few deals that I upset management so much that the dealer refused to deliver the car because I negotiated so low, or made them over allow on the trade that filling the tank with gas would lose them money. I try to work with dealers who are happy I came to them in the first place, that try to appease my clients and I, as I bring them so much business.
Q: I have a trade in and I want the best possible price for it. Can you help me? Even if I still owe money on it?
A: I can refer you to where to sell your car for more than most dealers will pay for your trade or I can negotiate on your behalf as a private party seller to get you the most money if you’re patient. If you are what we in the business call “upside down” meaning you owe more than the car is worth, we can consolidate the balance owed of your trade on to the new vehicle. In some rare cases I’ve traded in leases upwards of a year early and applied the equity to the price of the new purchase or lease.